The Day of the Dead (Dia de Los Muertos) is a two-day Mexican holiday tradition where the living are reunited with the dead. On November 1, spirits of children are reunited with their families, followed by adult spirits on November 2, and then all spirits together on the evening of November 2. Families gather together, dress up, cook food, party, and decorate the graves of their loved ones to honor their lives. The celebration of life spans all across Mexico and other countries and is a significant part of Mexican culture.
Families often create offerings (ofrendas) to their passed loved ones where they present them with flowers, photos, and their favorite foods and drinks in the hopes they will be enticed to come join their family again. As the night goes on, friends and family dressed with skeleton (calavera) painted faces have parades and dance in the streets. Everyone makes their way to their local graveyard where families clean and tend to their loved ones’ graves and decorate them with marigolds, sugar skulls, and small gifts.
A little over an hour southeast of Mexico City is the town of San Andres Míxquic which has become known for its traditional rituals at the main church, Templo y Ex-Convento de San Andrés Apóstol de Míxquic. The streets are filled with local families and vendors selling classic Mexican treats as visitors and locals all make their way to the main church. The graveyard itself is a very small area, and so many deceased loved ones are buried here that they have had to be stacked on top of one another in separate graves.
Each year, the city’s main cemetery opens to the public, where vibrant displays of burnt-orange Mexican marigolds, delicate white flor de nube (baby’s breath), and thousands of glowing candles adorn the graves of Mixquic’s departed at the Templo y Ex-Convento de San Andrés Apóstol.
During my recent trip to Mexico to experience the Day of the Dead festivities I made the journey to Mixquic to see the traditional family celebrations that occur. It is such a unique experience as families invite you into their homes where trails of bright orange marigold petals lead the way to beautiful ofrendas that have been created to feel close to their relatives who have passed. It was a bit of an emotional experience to be part of the celebrations because it made me miss my own family members who have passed away and have a sudden urge to be close to them once again.
On the morning of November 2, families and friends gather in the graveyard to tidy up the graves of their loved ones and prepare them for the alumbrada (illumination.) The tombs are elaborately decorated with thousands of flowers spanning the length of the graveyard. Colored sands and flower petals made into the shape of skulls or other symbols lay on the surface of graves, accompanied by trinkets and smoking incense.
Once the sun has gone down and the graveyard is covered in darkness, the alumbrada begins as families light thousands of candles, illuminating the graveyard and the spirits of their loved ones. The scenery glows with color as families sit for hours, side by side with their passed relatives, feeling close to them for one more night.
If you do decide to go to Mixquic for the Day of the Dead festivities be prepared for large crowds. The small town has become a popular place for visitors to go to see how local families celebrate the holiday. It is a commitment to go to visit during the October 31- November 2 holiday period.
You should plan a minimum of a two-hour drive from Mexico City and you will reach a point when you get into the city where you will have to walk as traffic comes to a standstill. I hired a driver and a guide for an 8-hour day to make the journey and ensure that I had a ride to and from Mixquic during peak hours. I found the journey and time commitment to be worth the effort to see authentic Day of the Dead traditions.
The traditions of Mexico for the Day of the Dead are truly remarkable, beautiful representations of how love lives on even after death in many cultures and places. While each town and region celebrates differently, they are all coming together to honor and meet their loved ones again for a night of love, celebration, and remembrance.