After saying a bittersweet goodbye to the charming island of Korčula, I set off for my next destination: the stunning island of Hvar. Known for its vibrant nightlife, crystal-clear waters, and historic treasures, Hvar immediately lived up to its reputation as one of Croatia’s most picturesque destinations. I checked into Hotel Villa Nora, where the warm hospitality made me feel right at home—especially after several indulgent days of wine, sun, and celebration.
From fairytale-like fortresses and ancient villages to discovering a new favorite gelato shop (aRoma, I’m looking at you) and sipping rare island wines at the Hvar Wine Festival, this stretch of my journey was unforgettable. Come along as I explore the best of Hvar—one panoramic view, glass of wine, and lavender-scented breeze at a time.
Day 8 – My Journey to Hvar (Friday, April 4)
After disembarking the ferry in Hvar I was met by Nora who walked me and my wine filled luggage over to my accommodations at Hotel Villa Nora, her family’s guesthouse. Nora could tell I was recovering from day after day of drinking and made me a beautiful breakfast.
It’s known as the party island but during the off season life is slower and Hvar is the perfect place to take in breathtaking views and amazing hospitality. Mama Mia was filmed in Hvar, and nearby in Blue Cave and we can see why because the water literally sparkles when you look at it.
Hvar Island is also home to the oldest public theater in Europe and I got to tour it! It opened in 1612 and was open for all citizens. It’s right on the water, and a very cool piece of history to check out.
For lunch, I stopped in at the Adriana Spa Hotel in Hvar for a quick cheeseburger on the fourth floor. The burger was good, but the view: breathtaking. Enjoying the clear day, eating a hearty meal and looking out over the brilliant turquoise sea with the red roofed white buildings dotting the green hills – one of the most beautiful views of my life.
I confess that my biggest highlight of the day is discovering the famous aRoma gelato. Yes, I will be eating gelato every day now.
Day 9 – Hvar Island Tour and Wine Festival (Saturday, April 5)
I packed 3 days into one here. I took a private island tour of so many cultural sights and finished the day with the Hvar Wine Festival.
My tour was with Zorana from Debonda Tours in Hvar and I cannot recommend her enough, she was amazing. We saw the entire island of Hvar, so many spectacular views, and I learned so much from her. As a local guide, Zorana unlocked a lot of hidden parts of the island I would hav never found on my own.
On the driving tour, we stopped at a fort built by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1812 on a hill overlooking the sea and the smaller islands that surround Hvar. You go down this really cool old road with great views, which we then took to Fortica Fortress, located on a former Illyrian settlement from before 500 bc. The fort itself dates back to the 1200s and was finished in the 1500s. It was built mostly under Venetian rule, and was named the Spanish fortress due to the architectural influence from Spanish military castles. The views truly take your breathe away.
Village Velo Grablje has the oldest factory in Europe. To this day it is still usable for processing rosémary and lavender essential oil using steam distillation. There’s a lavender festival every July that attracts thousands.
After passing Velo Grabje, Zorana took me to a wine museum in the village of Pitve, where we were guided by Djurdjica Duljic. She went into the life of the grapevine much more poetically than they did at the vineyard in Brak. The museum exhibits walk you through the life of the vine is as follows: Crying, Budding, Flowering, Grapes and Harvest. Just like the vintner, Duljic noted that the vines require attention and care all year long to remain healthy.
Finally, we went to Stari Grad Town. Actually, the island was originally found by ancient Greeks, the Illyrians, and the Greek heritage can be explored in Stari Grad town, a small quiet village with a bay for nautical tourism, with cool old boats made of olive wood. The little harbor is beyond idyllic, like something out of a painting, so quaint it’s almost unbelievable.
There’s just so much to see on this Island. You could spend a full week here and still not see everything. There are 6 UNESCO sites on Hvar alone.
After the tour, I went to the Hvar Wine Festival, which started at 5pm at the Arsenal in Hvar. The Arsenal is a gorgeous historic building on the city square originally used as a maintenance shipyard. The weather outside was gorgeous, sunny and breezy, the perfect spring evening.
I was absolutely blown away by the oyster bar and fresh cut ham station before heading inside to the wine. There were wines, truffles, olive oils – so many delicious luxuries to experience.
I sampled some fabulous sparkling from Code and also Coletti wineries. I also loved being able to try Prc, an Dalmatian indigenous grape kept alive only on the island of Hvar, from Kvalitetno Vino. Again, it was so cool to try so many wines that can only be found in this one place. I was truly tasting something found only on the island of Hvar.
Another favorite moment of the festival was speaking to Niksa Vujnovic of Vujnovic winery on Hvar island and trying their wine. They’re a family of archeologists and they make a really tasty rosé from half red and half white grapes.
Day 10 – A Final Day in Split At Meštrović Museum (Sunday, April 6)
The last day of my trip to Dalmatia – whew! What an insanely packed week it’s been. I’ve seen so much, had so much great wine and food and adventure. I’ve met so many wonderful people.
I took the ferry back to Split today. I went through the Meštrović Museum, a beautiful gallery dedicated to the works of Ivan Meštrović, a 20th century sculptor. The museum itself was actually designed as a summer residence, sculpture garden and working space for Ivan Meštrović himself that is now open to the public.
Then I went somewhere a little unusual, a little strange. I went to Froggyland, which might be the silliest little museum in the world. I almost don’t want to explain it so I don’t ruin the magic, but here it is: it’s a small museum dedicated to taxidermied frogs doing human activities in little outfits. Believe it or not, it’s the best rated museum in Croatia, and if you like goofy and unusual dioramas, this is the place for you.
My last stop in Split was more gelato, which was delicious.
Croatia was magnificent.
I tasted 82 different wines (at least!) and had so many new grapes that I’d never tried before. I made pasta. I had my White Lotus moment at the Heritage Hotel. I could have stayed at OPG Protic Sanja and lived very happily. I could have gazed out on the mountain views every day while making cakes and eating the tastiest sweets at her perfect table. I saw so many ancient sites, rich with history, most of which are still used today.
All in all, a very full, beautiful and delicious trip and I cannot recommend this country enough. I will be back as they say in the movies after my epic Spring adventure.