I’ve always loved horses, but my riding experience was mostly occasional and recreational—never a multi-day adventure. Recently, I had the incredible opportunity to spend three consecutive days riding with Banff Trail Riders, a premier outfitter in Banff National Park offering horseback trips for all skill levels, ranging from a one-hour ride to six-day wilderness excursions. Nestled in the breathtaking Canadian Rockies, their trails provide an unforgettable way to experience the park’s rugged beauty.
While I felt confident in my riding ability, I was slightly anxious about going off-grid. In today’s hyperconnected world, it’s rare to be without Wi-Fi for more than a few hours. For three full days, I would be completely unplugged, with no access to news, work, or social media. The first surprise? I survived—and thrived.
The horses were patient, the scenery was awe-inspiring, and what impressed me most was the seamless organization of Banff Trail Riders. From the safety briefing with owner and Head Cowgirl Julie Canning to meeting my horse Manny and the perfectly orchestrated rides, everything ran smoothly. The home-cooked meals, passed down through generations of family recipes, were another highlight, fueling long days in the saddle. Julie and her team of guides, most of whom are women, focus on animal welfare and environmental stewardship, creating an empowering and responsible backcountry experience.
Day 1: Into the Backcountry
Our small group of six women met Julie for introductions and a thorough safety briefing before meeting our horses. Manny, my companion for the next three days, quickly became familiar under my hands as we set off for 15 miles of pristine backcountry. With no cars or crowds in sight, it felt like stepping into another world.
The first part of the ride was gentle, allowing time to admire the sweeping mountain vistas. We paused mid-ride for a riverside lunch, complete with steak grilled to perfection. The afternoon brought a challenging climb—6,000 feet in three hours—to reach Sundance Lodge, our home for the night. Nestled against the trees and mountains, the lodge looked like something from a Thomas Kinkade painting.
Dinner at the lodge was a hearty feast of roast, ribs, potatoes, and beets, followed by cinnamon rolls baked to perfection. Julie, along with backcountry manager Erica Woolsey and front country supervisor Anna Wiederhold, shared the lodge’s rich history and the vital role women play in Banff Trail Riders’ operations. Seasonal staff, like Ruby Kelly from Australia, ensure everything runs smoothly while immersing themselves in the beauty of the park. The evening ended with s’mores by the fire, exchanging stories of wildlife encounters with bears, mountain goats, elk, marmots, and wolves. They even spoke about wolverines which I thought only existed as a Hugh Jackman movie character. Banff Trail Riders works with Parks Canada throughout the year with trail cameras to track the wildlife that is so important to the park’s ecosystem.
Day 2: Pushing Through To Higher Altitudes
After a night of deep sleep, I awoke sore from head to toe. The muscles I hadn’t realized I had were aching, but the morning began with a delicious breakfast of eggs and bacon, prepared by Ruby and cook Zoe Brightmore from the UK. Fueled for the day, we set out further into the backcountry.
The long ride was physically challenging, but with encouragement from the guides, I pushed through the discomfort. Horses engage muscles you rarely use, and by mid-ride, I started to loosen up and enjoy the rhythm of life on horseback. A 10-mile circuit climbing to almost 7000 feet brought us back to the lodge, where another satisfying meal awaited: ribs, vegetables, and salad, exactly what my aching body needed. Wranglers like Rebecca Carwardine, Penny Haynes, and Olivia Fenwicke were essential to keeping the trails, horses, and lodge in top shape, working tirelessly behind the scenes.
Day 3: The Return Ride to Banff
On the final day, we rode back to Banff, retracing our path with a newfound confidence. My hips and thighs felt much stronger, and I finally felt in tune with my horse and the wilderness. A riverside lunch mirrored the first day’s meal, with grilled sausage sandwiches providing a simple, satisfying finale.
Back at the main office, we toured Banff Trail Riders’ newly expanded $3 million barn facilities, complete with in-house repair shops, vet stalls, and state-of-the-art barns. Meeting Julie’s business partner Jonathan Welsh, who has spent over two decades in Banff, rounded out an unforgettable experience.
Three days on horseback in the Canadian Rockies tested my endurance, patience, and ability to unplug. I discovered the profound joy of disconnecting, the physical demands of multi-day rides, and the incredible camaraderie among women guiding and supporting in the backcountry. With the Banff Trail Riders team by my side, I achieved my “cowgirl moment”—and left with memories that will last a lifetime.
Women in Banff’s backcountry have historically been restricted to supporting roles like cooking, with few opportunities to guide or take leadership positions. Today, the landscape has changed dramatically under the ownership of Julie Canning, who left her corporate career to take over Banff Trail Riders. Julie has built a team dominated by talented women who serve as guides, wranglers, and managers, demonstrating exceptional skill, leadership, and dedication to both the horses and the environment. What was once a male-dominated backcountry is now a space where women thrive, lead, and shape the future of wilderness guiding in the Canadian Rockies.